Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
